Spanish restaurant Rioja in Finnieston welcomed Michelin star chef, Modesto Fabregat from Valencia, for a three-day takeover of their kitchen that resulted in an exciting event for fans of modern Spanish cooking.
Known for showcasing seasonal produce, Modesto put his own stamp on the food for a gastronomic collaboration with Rioja head chef, Luis Urrutiabeaskoa as they curated a dazzling eight-course tasting menu with matched wines from specialist wine importer Bruno Murciano, formerly head sommelier of the Ritz London.
Rioja on Argyle Street has quickly carved out a reputation for serving some of the best tapas in town, cooked by chefs from Basque country in Spain.
Glasgow currently does not have a Michelin Star restaurant. The reviewers from the Michelin Guide have stubbornly refused to recognise the city’s top chefs although a smattering of eateries are given an honourable mention in the Bib Gourmand section. It’s irksome.
Like Manchester, the fact that Glasgow is overlooked does not accurately reflect the level of the restaurant scene. However, our propensity for no-nonsense, relaxed, casual dining is not what the Michelin men are looking for, it seems.
Arguably places like The Gannet, Gamba or Brian Maule at Le Chardon d’Or offer an experience that is on a par with some of the best places in the country. Elsewhere, Michelin star chef Martin Wishart offers brasserie style food at The Honours in the city centre.
This ambitious project for Rioja put Michelin star dishes into a gastro pub setting in Finnieston and it was an absolute triumph. The menu demonstrated that the ingredients are available to create a stunning dining experience.
Amaryllis, a restaurant located in the One Devonshire Gardens hotel opened by chef Gordon Ramsay, with David Dempsey operating the restaurant on a daily basis, was awarded a Michelin star in 2002, which it held until the restaurant’s closure in 2004. There’s been no star awarded here since.
We don’t necessarily feel the absence of a Michelin star, but it would be nice for Glasgow to get the nod soon. It would be a vote of confidence in a restaurant scene that’s in robust health.
What happened at Rioja this week took a tremendous effort and they should be applauded for their ambition. Each tapa was better than the last as the menu reached new heights. Meanwhile, the wine pairings were a joyous accompaniment.
Modesto is an odd name for a chef, as we don’t think we’ve ever met a chef who is modest. The staff at Rioja were thrilled to work with him, to source the ingredients and to look at a completely different way of serving and presenting the food. After eight perfectly constructed portions we felt like hugging every one involved.
Our favourite dishes were the Aberdeen pigeon, mango and liver, paired with a glass of Rioja and Zamoran spring lamb, Marcona almonds and sweet potato, served with Ribera Del Duero. Balanced, well cooked and just sublime.
More collaborations, more pop-ups, more food stars – that’s a bright future for Glasgow. If they can take some lessons from this special, brief experience at Rioja, then the future is bright for them too.
Speaking of the pop-up, Eduardo Fernandez Blanco, general manager of Rioja told Glasgowist:
“There has been a lot of changes in Finnieston over the last few years, and when we first started out as a pop-up way back at the beginning of 2012, we had the ambition to establish ourselves in the hearts and minds of our customers for authentic, delicious Spanish tapas, and this event marks a further evolution of our menu. Some of the most famous chefs in the world hail from Spain and our dedicated head chef, Luis Urrutiabeaskoa, has helped cement our reputation as a top quality dining destination, bringing his innovative, modern and classic Iberian cooking style into Rioja.
We’re passionate about food. We’re passionate about creating dishes that are reflective of local Spanish cuisine. And we’re passionate about creating an experience that transports you to the craziness of the streets of Valencia or Madrid. Food should be savoured. Shared. Enjoyed. And that’s exactly what we hope our customers enjoy each time they visit.”
Speaking of the menu, Eduardo explained:
‘Modesto and Luis have already been in touch crafting to create our eight-course extravaganza over the last month. They have planned to go foraging and will be visiting markets across Scotland to select the best ingredients and produce for our menu. Like our head chef, Luis, Modesto is known for carefully selected ingredients, and we’re looking forward to treating Glasgow to our exciting culinary collaboration.”
Rioja Espana Takeover 8 Course Tasting Menu
Amuse bouche
Carpaccio de presa ahumada con encurtidos y jugo de carne
Smoked Iberian carpaccio, pickles and game jus
Paired with Manzanilla
Consome de cigalas con naja al vapor
East coast razor clams, crayfish tails, seafood consomme#
Paired with Cava
Yema de huevo ecologico trufada con hongos silvestres de temporada
Organic egg yolk, truffle, foraged wild mushrooms
Paired with Rueda
Bacalao con espuma de pil pil de collifior y ajoarriero de centollo
Arbroath cod, cauliflower, Galacian crab
Paired with Godello
Pichon con escabeche de mango y tosta con higado
Aberdeen pigeon, mango and liver
Paired with Rioja
Cordero a baja temperatura con migas de almendra y pure de boniato rojo
Zamoran spring lamb, Marcona almonds, sweet potato
Paired with Ribera Del Duero
Fresas, naranja y miel de cania
Strawberry, orange and honey
Paired with Pedro Ximenez
Coulant de chocolate y ruibarbo con sorbete de fruta de la pasion
Chocolate, rhubarb and passion fruit
