Food historian and writer Ben Mervis arrived in Glasgow to study at university. 14 years later, he’s still here. After graduating, Ben worked at Noma in Copenhagen as an assistant to the head chef, gaining experience in the food world. He returned to his new home to launch a magazine. Fare is a bi-annual publication that explores city culture through the intersection of food, history and community. Ben has gone on to be a contributor to the Netflix’s food documentary series Chef’s Table and is wrote The British Cookbook from his tenement flat in the Southside. This is his local story.
“I was a student at a university outside of Philadelphia, which is where I’m from. I remember wanting to study abroad, and there was this exciting option to come to Scotland. I had travelled Europe in my teenage years, but I didn’t know much about the place. I won a scholarship and that was it. I showed up at this perfect stage in my life, where I needed a new proving ground. Somewhere to create that blank slate.
I remember the first time I saw Glasgow. Flying over Scotland, early in the morning, the green hills, then coming into land, seeing the fog, and cars cutting through it. I showed up at halls, then walked around for about three hours trying to find town. I met my flatmates and within a couple of weeks, I was living as if Glasgow was my city, and I had lived there forever. I never felt like an outsider. Even though I was clearly a foreigner, I felt included.
The West End for me now, it’s connected to those student days. I turn every corner and think about the friends I made or some of the parties I went to in flats. The memories can be a bit intense sometimes.
I realised I wanted to explore a new place in the city so I moved to Pollokshields and now I’m in Govanhill. It’s a nice area to live in, you’re close to huge parks, it’s fairly affordable to rent or buy a home and to start up your own business.
If I want to show off Glasgow to visitors then I usually start off with a bacon roll in an older cafe, then a walk through Pollok Park to see all the Highland cows, then a visit to Pollok House.The Burrell Collection, I think it has the finest collection in the city and the building is really beautiful. Then an Indian restaurant for dinner, then I would take them to the pub. Probably a series of pubs.
My Holy Trinity of Glasgow Indian food at the moment is Mother India, probably the upstairs one on Westminster Terrace, Ranjit’s Kitchen on Pollokshaws Road. The new one on my list is Kebabish. That is one of my locals too – I thought it was absolutely fantastic, and I was so excited that it’s a five minute walk from my house.
In terms of bars, my two favourites are The Laurieston and the Star Bar – they do an excellent karaoke night. I have a very soft spot for Nice N Sleazy in town from my Uni days. The Hielan Jessie is a great pub, and it’s so cheap.
Right now, I’m subletting a place in Partick while I’m renovating my flat. I’m not far from Kaf, and I’m going there all the time to pick up bread. Kaf is wonderful.
When I published the Glasgow edition of Fare, there were lots of little stories that I wanted to include. I attempted to put together a pretty well-rounded magazine that showed what it’s like to live here. I wanted people to get a sense of what I’d found here. I’ve a real enthusiasm for this city. I count it as a blessing that I turned up in Glasgow.
Celebrating the Best of Glasgow, in partnership with The Glenlivet Single Malt Whisky. Ask for cocktails at The Duke’s Umbrella.
