Change is on the menu at one of Glasgow’s grandest hotels. One Devonshire Gardens by Hotel du Vin has appointed Gary Townsend as head chef of its 3AA Rosette restaurant. He’s an ambitious chef with over 16 years of experience in some of the country’s most renowned kitchens including Tom Kitchin’s The Kitchin, and Restaurant Martin Wishart, where he worked as a sous chef during the time the restaurant was awarded a Michelin Star back in 2011.
If Glasgow has any reputation as a city that takes cooking seriously, then that stature is built on the bedrock of places like One Devonshire Gardens. This is an address that means something, a beacon for West End sophistication and a byword for fine dining and discrete hospitality.
His appointment brings an air of expectation. After taking time to rework the cuisine and build his team of 11 in the kitchen, including a number of chefs he previously worked with at Cameron House, it’s time to plan for the future.
Gary Townsend wants a Michelin Star. He tells us as much after striding into the dining room: younger than we expected, trim, neat haircut, easy manner, even after a busy shift in the kitchen. He is passionate about celebrating Scottish produce, combined with a classically French cooking style. He wants to build up the menu in layers, introduce new flavours, develop relationships with producers, aim high.
Whether a nod from the Michelin Guide means as much to diners these days is debatable. The accolade remains the award that chefs value more than others. It takes a team effort to get there. The pursuit of that standard of service and cuisine seems to radiate beyond the restaurant. It provides a focus and a renewed sense of purpose to the rest of the hotel.
An evening here is impressive. Some of the more formal tones of the interior have been softened, particularly in the hotel bar, where we begin our visit with a gin and tonic. There’s a sense of occasion as we sprawl on the deep couches, confirmed by the arrival of canapes and a crisp glass of Coates & Seeley Reserve Brut, which is, surprisingly, from Hampshire.
We are here to get a sense of the new menus, which include the À la Carte, seven course tasting and Sunday lunch.
Explaining the new dishes, Gary said: “It’s been an incredibly busy but very fun start reviewing the menus. We have a fantastic larder here in Scotland and you’ll find this in each of the new menus, whether that’s the tasting menu right down to the vegetarian a la carte which features various types of beetroot and wild mushrooms which are both delicious right now. We are extremely fortunate to have, in my opinion, the best seafood on the planet and this is showcased through the menus with dishes including salmon, scallops and lemon sole.”
Gary has also worked closely with One Devonshire Garden’s in-house sommelier, Alan Brady on the new offering to ensure that the dining experience marries up with the hotel’s extensive wine collection, which includes over 340 wines housed within the hotel’s private cellar.
Alan lets us visit his office. The wine cellar is a real treasure trove of rare and interesting wine varieties. Plus, Alan has a wealth of knowledge to share. He’s a great host, with a one-liner for everything and a real dedication to his craft. Look out for opportunities to join him for a wine tasting, he’s great company.
Back upstairs in the private dining room, we have a starter of salted Scottish salmon, cucumber, avocado with a squid ink cracker. Unusual, and bursting with fresh flavours, it was Spring on a plate.
Next, one of the new signature dishes: Loch Fyne scallops, salt baked celeriac, apple, hazelnuts, black truffle. There’s a lot going on here. Everything plays well with each other. A confident plate bringing together outstanding Scottish ingredients with a bit of flair.
The Goosnargh duck, leg pastilla, red cabbage, beetroots and orange sauce was a modern interpretation of a traditional combination, the beetroots and red cabbage in particular were bursting with flavour.
Then, a Valrhona chocolate creameaux, passion fruit, mango, honeycomb, with milk sorbet. What a way to bring things to a close. That’s a powerful dessert, including many of our favourite things.
Whether you have a relationship with One Devonshire Gardens or have yet to visit, as they reach for the stars, now’s the time to go.
On the Menu: One Devonshire Gardens
Velouté of Muscade pumpkin – chestnut ravioli £9.75
Wood pigeon – game boudin – braised chicory – hazelnut – parsley root £14.95
Duck liver – rhubarb – pistachio – gingerbread £14.95
Salted Scottish salmon – cucumber – avocado – wild rice £13.50
Seared Loch Fyne scallop – salt baked celeriac – apple – hazelnuts – black truffle £16.50
Jacob’s ladder – mushrooms – shallots- watercress £13.95
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North Sea cod – cauliflower – golden raisins – curry – carrot £23.95
Lemon sole fillets – savoy cabbage – parsnip – brown shrimp – beurre blanc £25.95
Goosnargh duck – red cabbage – beetroots – leg pastille – orange sauce £27.95
Pork jowl – fillet – langoustine – piccalilli – choucroute £26.95
Highland deer – white turnip – wild mushrooms – crosnes – onion sauce £27.95
Aged sirloin of Scotch beef – brisket – marrow – potato mousseline – oyster £32.00