The transformation of Finnieston has been quite extraordinary. This overlooked city centre enclave experienced a facelift like no other area in the city and people now flock there to enjoy – and to be seen enjoying – the strip’s many bars and restaurants.
It’s a thriving area and has become a chic address within a relatively short space of time. There was even the curious moment when The Times crowned Finnieston “the hippest place to purchase real estate in Britain”. Try explaining that to your grandparents.
Yet there are few recognisable businesses that stood the test of this rapid gentrification with many closing as stylish and high-priced bars and brasseries took hold. A number of trusted names held strong however, influencing newcomers and solidifying their position as an integral part of Finnieston’s rich vibrancy.
The Ben Nevis first opened its doors in its current incarnation in 1999. It is as true a traditional pub as you’re likely to find in Glasgow’s West End. It stands as a little piece of The Highlands in the city and sits comfortably alongside the newer Kelvingrove Café cocktail bar and The Gannett eatery.
Proprietor, Elaine Scott, credits it as the type of place where people “come in as strangers and leave as friends”. It was one of the first places in the city to go back to the old stone brickwork, now seen in many new places as they attempt to engender a form of authenticity.
The range of whiskies available is staggering and fuses wonderfully with the frequent traditional music sessions supplied by students of the Royal Conservatoire of Scotland. It has endured as a focal point of the area partly because of its reputation and partly due to the fact it never seems to age, standing as the timeless and essential heart of Finnieston.
Many in the area credit the arrival of Crabshakk as heralding the rise in Finnieston’s fortunes. Yet Fanny Trollopes, with it’s hip 1920’s art deco signage and unpretentious approach to dining, has been bringing foodies to the area for nearing 15 years.
Chef Gary Bayless and maître d’ Rory McGinley point squarely to their approach as an ever-evolving yet consistently reliable eatery as why they have endured amongst other, arguably hipper, establishments.
Though they admit the feeling of neighbourhood has diminished slightly as the rents and rates have risen, they know their clientele well and their clientele know them too.
“People have come in and met their partners in here,” claims Gary, “despite being sat at separate but adjoining tables. It’s due to the relaxed atmosphere we’ve created.” Rory however believes it’s down to their strong reputation:
While other places nearby have a particular identity we’ve constantly been a point of identification.
Of course, there are other points of identification that have added to the cultural and socially diverse soup that defines the area. The sublime Thai Siam with its dimly lit reverence to Asian cuisine. The Grove – set one foot inside and you’ll feel like you have traversed back to the smoky Glasgow bar-rooms of the 1970’s shipyard worker.
Yet nowhere has more acutely influenced and been a prophesy of what was to come than Firebird. With its dedication to artisan pizza and stylish décor bathed in natural light, many bars and restaurants in the area owe their acceptance to this firebrand in what was originally a sparse part of Argyle Street. Owner Derrick Sutherland understands its integral place in the past and future of the area:
“The ethos of Firebird was simply to raise the quality of food in an affordable restaurant using the best ingredients. It’s a neighbourhood bar and restaurant catering for all ages and our customers leave feeling content and happy and keen to return.”
While no area can remain stuck in the past, at the same time no neighbourhood can exist without its steadfast bastions to its past and present. Quite simply, Finnieston wouldn’t be what it is without them.
Pictures by Roberto Parrucci
