It’s been a while. Rogano featured in the first episode of Benedict Cumberbatch’s new drama on Sky Atlantic, Patrick Melrose. The darkly comedic scene was in the instantly recognisable bar section of the restaurant. It reminded us of quite how distinctive, quirky and glorious the oldest surviving restaurant in Glasgow really is.
We took a table last night with friends for a quick but rewarding dinner. It’s an immersive experience. In 1935 as the great Cunard liner Queen Mary was taking shape on the Clyde, the restaurant was refitted in the same Art Deco style. The room remains in that impressive fashion, locked in a particular point of time.
It’s a special restaurant, presenting the finest fish and seafood to be found in Scottish waters. They take the art of dining seriously here, but not too seriously. There’s that fine mix of performance, culinary flourishes and still making visitors feel at ease.
The chilled fruits de mer plate includes mussels, langoustines, oysters, prawns, smoked salmon, pickled herring, smoked mackerel and dressed crab, presented on a platter of crushed ice, a feast for one £34 and £68 for two.
The half lobster Thermidor with shoestring fries (£27) is a consistent feature on the menu. An indulgent and rewarding treat any night of the week.
After dinner, linger at the bar for an old fashioned cocktail.
11 Exchange Place
T: 0141 248 4055