Nico Simeone is standing at the bar. It’s been a particularly busy night in the kitchen at his modern gastropub restaurant but chef seems unfazed. I first met him at one of the very first lunches in Six by Nico, the concept restaurant he created in Finniestion. I told him I’d be back. I say the same about Public House, his new creation on Great Western Road.
Add it to the list of new places that are worthy of your immediate attention.
Public House opened in December after a blizzard of constructive energy created the venue. At the time, Nico said: “It’s been on my radar to open a modern gastropub restaurant for some time. The actual turnaround time, from us acquiring the site to fit out and now, the final stages of preparation, has been pretty quick”.
“It’s a brilliant location and perfect for what we want to achieve; an informal and relaxed offer, a real neighbourhood restaurant where you can drop in for a quick bite, enjoy a spot of lunch or brunch or get together with friends and family over Sunday dinner.”
The handsome bar is as much of a feature of the place as the dining room. Meeting for a drink and a bite to eat is what it is all about. A fun, West End spot where there is a remarkable selection of small plates.
Many of the dishes are playful twists on Scottish staples. There’s a similar approach to food as the Scran & Scallie in Edinburgh. Which is a very good thing.
Share dishes with friends or jealously guard your own selection with elbows out and cutlery poised to attack. You can find the full menu here.
As seems to be par for the course with small plate menus, we are advised to choose three dishes each. Plates are grouped by how long they will take to come out from the kitchen. Everything is delivered by staff who glide between tables offering insight on what to select.
Arbroath smokies croquette, brown butter and miso hollandaise (£7.50) was a wonderful start. Best fish fingers we’ve ever had.
According to today’s Herald on Sunday, we enjoyed the crab, smoked mackerel and crayfish rarebit, stout soda bread with apple compote (£9) a great deal more than Joanna Blythman. It was our favourite part of the meal. A surprising and satisfying construction, full or rewarding flavours.
More outstanding Scottish fish, prepared with flair as we enjoyed the delicately curried coley, pilaf rice cake and coconut (£8)
We were into familiar gastropub territory with the ox cheek pie, bone marrow (£9), with a side of triple cooked chips (£3.50). What more could you want in a Glasgow pub, even a reconstructed version of one, on a cold winter’s night.
Nico Simeone’s success is built on a creative approach to cooking, continually brainstorming and refining dishes, borrowing influences from across cuisines and presenting the best produce. This has allowed him to expand his burgeoning culinary empire. The bedrock is his staff. He invests in people, allows them an opportunity to achieve their potential in the kitchen and front of house. It’s absolutely in evidence here, where the staff are charming and knowledgeable.
Trusting our waitress we ordered the hispi cabbage, black garlic, ewes cheese (£5.50). We were over anxious to try this, hence the already sliced example in the picture below. Highly recommended.
Things are brought to a conclusion with a cheese board, oat cakes, chutney and apple (£8) with a big glass of wine.
Earlier this week it was announced that there will be a Six by Nico restaurant opening in the Cathedral Quarter of Belfast, following on from an expansion to Edinburgh last year.
Public House shows Nico and the team still have a lot to bring to the table in Glasgow.
Public House by Nico
333 Great Western Road
Glasgow
G4 9HS
Tel: 0141 339 3701